Chang Noi was formerly
situated on the outskirts of Chester, having relocated to the Birch &
Bottle, outside Antrobus, some eighteen or so months ago. The pub is of the
spit and sawdust variety – gaudy, loud carpets, chintzy decor - and hasn’t seen
a great deal in the way of decoration for, I dare say, some while.
It was
moderately busy on our visit, and, having pre-booked, we were directed to a
table near the bar - a table so sticky your shirt sleeves adhered to it as though
it were fashioned from velcro.
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| STICKY WICKET |
There is an extended dining area in the
conservatory – which might well be more salubrious but, in light of the screams
of a caterwauling child that emanated from it, I was thankful to be well out of
the way.
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| SIGNS OF THE TIMES |
Chang Noi doesn’t just do
Thai. They specialise in a kind of hotchpotch fusion of cuisines broadly falling
under the umbrella term ‘Asian’. The menu sounded curious, and intensely
tantalising. Shortly after the delivery of a tasty Sauvignon, a starter of
Ramaquin Madras was received with aplomb.
 |
| IN MINCE CONDITION |
A house special, it comprised lamb
and beef mince and peas bound in various spices. It was huge. In fact, it could barely be
contained by the perimeter of prawn crackers fencing it in, in the manner of deep-fried
riot police encircling a mincemeat mob. The bed of rice on which the dish was
pivoted only added to the largesse. It was quite, spicy, too - so far, so good.
 |
| CURRY FAVOUR |
The main courses can roughly
be divided into two camps: ‘Thai cuisine’ and ‘our own recipe’ (i.e. other). I
tried the kamikaze curry from the latter section, intriguingly described as ‘our
version of a Vindaloo but with a lot more taste.’ I expected something hot, and
I wasn’t disappointed.
However, the duck meat (available at a supplement of
£1.50) was sub-par – stringy, chewy and, worse, elusive. It was a real shame.
And, although the heat from the dish was phenomenal, the sauce itself was a watery
soup in which could be found the odd piece of sinew or fatty duck skin.
Moreover, the garlic naan I ordered on the side was straight from the shelves
of Asda, via the microwave. Mrs V’s Thai red curry, meanwhile, hit the spot,
but wasn’t really that spectacular.
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| STICKY RICE, RICE BABY |
I admire what Chang Noi is
trying to do here – set up in a stalwart country pub, offering decent Asian
cuisine at reasonable prices. But, on our visit, the fare was a bit hit-and-miss.
Granted, they’re trying to be a bit different. Perhaps, if they concentrated
solely on producing Thai cuisine of the finest quality - rather than making fusion-based
deviations - they might find themselves onto a real winner.
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| KAMIKAZE ATTACK |
That said, I would
return to Chang Noi on the strength of the starter alone, further ensuring
that, on any repeat visit, I opted for something a bit more prosaically Thai. I
do wonder how this venue will fare in light of the recent advent of Siam
Village in Stockton Heath - only time will tell.
Food: ✓✓✓
Service: ✓✓✓
Ambiance: ✓✓
Value: ✓✓✓✓
Website: http://www.changnoi.co.uk
Phone: 01925 730756
Tip: If ordering a kamikaze curry, be sure to put a toilet roll in the freezer before you retire for the evening.
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